我一直騎著公路自行車穿MTB鞋。我們小組中的其他一些人也這樣做，一點也沒錯。公路鞋通常比MTB鞋硬，但並非總是如此。我的SIDI與公路版一樣堅固。

A lot of riders appear to prefer SPD's, which is a great, and can work well (as indicated by the answers here). For interest sake here are some arguments for "road pedals" which are typically the three bolt variety.

Pros - Road Pedals (SPD-SL and others)

Road bike specific pedals (e.g., Shimano SPD-SL) are designed for a single purpose, road cycling, and the pedals do this job well. Road cycling has a lot of repetitive motions (you often sit in the same position for a long period of time) so fit can be key to reducing repetitive stress injuries.

If you get into long rides, high mileage or fast and hard rides you will notice the difference over SPD type pedals. Some of these differences include:

• Smoother Pedal Float - Pedal float is the ability to allow the shoe to swivel (and shift laterally in some systems) slightly during the pedal stroke. This can be important to reducing certain types of injury (and optimizing alignment) as your foot can shift slightly in the pedal stroke. Mountain bike pedals use the shoe tread as the contact point, while road pedals use a specialized cleat as the contact point. As such, road specific pedals can choose materials and control the contact patch better allowing a much smoother float (and often more float) than mountain bike systems.
  
  • Note - Some claim that float reduced power, but there is no real evidence for this idea. See the myth section in Phil Burt's Bike Fit.
• Wider Contact Area - Because they do not require the same ability to shed mud and dirt, or have a recessed cleat for walkability, road pedals have a large interface surface with the cleat.
  • Reduced Hot spots - The wide contact area distributes pedal force over a larger proportion of the shoe, which in turn better supports the foot. Assuming your shoe fits properly, this will result in reduced likelihood of hot spots. Hot spots can occur over long periods of riding, where a pressure point exists under a small potion of your foot which causes discomfort.
  • Better force transfer - The wider contact area allows for a more efficient transfer of force as there will be less flexing.
  • Easier Cleat Adjustment - Because of the larger contact surface, there is more friction between the shoe and cleat and the cleat can be held in place via frictional forces only without requiring the cleat to bite into the shoe as with SPDs. The result is that the bottom of the shoe is not damaged by a road cleat, making fine cleat adjustments easier. With SPD the bottom of the shoe often gets "bite marks" from the cleat making small cleat positional changes hard as the cleat has a tendency to migrate back to the original bit position.
• Lower Profile - Because the tread block is not required the road shoes can often be placed closer to the pedal axel. This can allow less rocking (more efficient power transfer) and allow for more clearance (aka harder cornering)
• Lower Weight/Lower Rotating mass If you care about such things (many do) the road pedal/shoe combo is typically lighter. This can provide minor performance gains.

Cons

• Lousy to walk in
  
  • This can cause accidents - After using road shoes for nearly 20 years I finally had my first accident, which hand me sliding across the kitchen floor (while avoiding small children) and crashing into the stove, where as luck would have it my hand landed on a red hot stove element! I still went for a ride though...
  • No hike a bike - Suppose you use up all your tubes (@CareyGregory), your frame is cracked and can't be welded because you are out riding across some African plain and there are no good TIG welders around, you are running out of water and you still have 10 miles to go. Well now add your shoes to your list of problems because you are not walking in them.
  • They sound funny - Depending if you look hot or like a stuffed sausage when you stop in for your pre-ride caffeine binge, the ensuing clickety-clack caused by road shoes may cause you horrendous humiliation!

我總是使用SPD踏板在公路自行車上使用MTB鞋：

• 我不必購買額外的鞋
• 有的MTB鞋>寒冷和潮濕的天氣，幾乎總是為夏季設計公路鞋。
• 您不必成為愚蠢步行部的成員關於使用MTB鞋子

雖然許多人將MTB防滑釘用於道路使用，並且對它們很滿意，但它們也有缺點。由於防滑釘是嵌入在鞋子中的，因此它們更易於行走。同一件事也要求防滑釘要比道路防滑釘小得多。

較小的防滑釘對腳的支撐要小於較大的防滑釘。在長途騎行中，額外的肌肉激活（腳底彎曲）會導致痙攣和熱點。質量更高的MTB鞋，通常具有碳纖維的硬底，會比軟橡膠更好。您也不太可能注意到這種差異，如果說，您只是騎過MTB鞋子和防滑釘。我會建議公路鞋和防滑釘是理想的性能選擇，但是出於多種多樣的原因，您可能會出於犧牲易用性或立即獲得短距離舒適性而考慮降低性能。

他們確實為公路防滑釘設計了公路自行車是有原因的。

One thing people forget to mention is the use of a top of the line mtn shoe on your road bike. The advantages of mtn shoes are many, walking, not having multiple shoes , etc. If you are using say the S Works mtn shoe on your road bike, you would be hard pressed to notice any difference in performance over the road shoe. Most riders are not tour professionals, so you are splitting hairs over specific shoes.

浮動，這是人在被夾住時腳可以旋轉的程度，有時可能會成為問題。換句話說，所有無夾腳踏板系統-之所以這樣稱呼是因為它們用某種防滑釘代替了腳趾夾-限制了夾腳時（ ie 。防滑釘已連接到踏板）。

這是我從SPD切換到Speedplays的主要原因。最初，我騎SPD，但正如其他受訪者所言，長時間騎行時我會感到腳熱，最終膝蓋有些疼痛，原來是由於SPD防滑釘稍微錯位造成的。那就是動力，因為使用Speedplays根本不是問題。在我看來，這是雙贏的：更多的浮動和最小的對準問題（前提是防滑釘正確放置在自己的鞋子上）。但是我不是通勤者。

這裡是一個人可以從各種踏板系統獲得的標稱浮動量，沒有特別的順序：

• Speedplay：向上到15度（向下滾動以查看圖像）；
• Shimano SPD，SPD-SL，最高6度；
• Look Keo，最高9度；

等等。顯然，選擇踏板/蹄片連接有很多因素，並且很高興可以有多個系統可供選擇。

我將MTB鞋用於公路騎行從來沒有任何問題，比起專用的公路鞋更喜歡它們。最好在冬季道路訓練時穿MTB鞋，或者在我的碎石自行車上穿，以防您需要騎車和走路。如果您是道路狂熱的受害者，也可以派上用場，這樣您就可以一腳踩緊雙腳，而不必在滑鞋的整個位置上滑動，從而使侵略者佔上風。